AKChickabee said:
Can anyone give me an idea or list of what I should get?
Yessir, I would be happy to:
http://pcpartpicker.com/user/Lofty/saved/1F58
Some elaboration:
The BitFenix Shinobi [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pDVCiZCo454] is a great case to build in, lots of room for cable management behind the motherboard tray, nice rubber pads for the PSU to sit on to reduce vibrations (thus also noise) and an extremely premium-feeling finish on the outside (BitFenix Soft-touch) - it's cheaper than equivalent cases from Corsair (the mainstream) and better build quality in some places.
The Corsair Power Supply I choice is enough to escape the 'danger zone' of bad cheap PSUs and is a great value. It is also semi-modular, so it lets you pack away the cables you don't need, thus not having them in the case which is good both for air flow and a clean look. Note: If you ever want to use more than one graphics card in the future, I suggest upgrading the PSU to 650W-700W instead of this.
Only one stick of RAM, but it's 8GB. This gives you room to chuck another in there when you have the extra money. And no, using only 1 stick on a dual-channel motherboard does NOT come with a performance penalty as some will try to convince you.
The Nvidia GeForce 650Ti Boost. I chose this for one reason. Most of the top graphics cards right now (Radeon 79XX and Nvidia 670+) will be a bad purchase because in a year or less we will start being hit with a lot of games that will start to bring those GPUs to their knees. Thus, if you're not buying a Titan card (which you shouldn't) or expensive multi-GPU setup (which you definitely shouldn't, as recent advances in benchmarking found SLI and Crossfire to produce worse artifacts and worse frame times than single GPU configs) - you should really just "cheap out" a little bit. In raw performance, the 650Ti boost is slightly lower than the GTX 470 and 560Ti, and is able to play NEAR MAX (emphasis on 'near') on all new games in 1200p or 1080p excluding Crysis 3. (Should do the latter on medium+)
The AMD Radeon 7790 is pretty much exactly as good, so if you prefer, you can get that instead. The 650Ti Boost from PNY is at an unbeatable cost right now though, but that might change by the time you go shopping.
The CPU cooler from Cooler Master is good for a soft overclock. These days, overclocking is brutally simple and as such anyone should do it. Go for a better cooler for higher clock speeds. Noctua, Phanteks and Be Quiet! has the best CPU air coolers these days, and their top models will match water cooling for hitting any CPU's dielectric barrier before it's thermal barrier. So watercooling CPUs is obsolete these days (people still do it though, old habits etc)
***If you don't want to overclock (why wouldn't you) just don't get this cooler.
The list does not include an SSD drive. Your budget wasn't cut out for one. But you can add one whenever extra money opens up.
I strongly suggest NOT downgrading any other parts in this list to afford an SSD! This is by all accounts the minimum PC I would suggest for HD gaming. If you downgrade just one step, you'll be better off downgrading all the way down to super-budget. (AMD APU processors on FM2 socket with integrated graphics- type budget)
Good luck!
Edit: I left a $100 buffer for your choice of peripherals. These tend to be better to decide yourself.
Edit 2: you will need to buy an extra 120mm intake fan, these are fairly cheap though. When/if you get the Shinobi, move it's exhaust fan to the front as an intake instead. You should have positive air pressure in any case to eliminate dust problems (more intake air flow than exhaust)