Dog Problems

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Launcelot111

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Jan 19, 2012
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Your dog isn't even one yet, it's still learning and still very excitable. Jumping up is not a big issue, and it can be corrected. I'm working my year and a half old cocker spaniel through the same issue, and it mostly comes down to telling her no whenever she jumps up on her own and knocking her paws off my leg. No more follow up yelling or shoving or anything, just one firm no and she'll get down. I still ask her to jump up so I can play with her sometimes, but I try to teach the distinction between jumping on her own and being invited up. My dog isn't a barker, so I can't really help with that.

As for the kennel and the muzzle, I have no issue with the kennel. I don't know the layout of your place, so a kennel might be the best place for her, but if you have a mudroom or some other out of the way room where you can set up a bed, that might be a more comfortable place as long as you have the option to close a door if need be. The muzzle seems a little much, I can't speak to how it curbs barking, but I've personally always seen muzzles as an anti-aggression tool rather than barking control.
 

MrMixelPixel

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Jul 7, 2010
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I appreciate the lengthy responses! At the very least I will say I give the dog plenty of exercise. I can't imagine how much harder this would be if I didn't. Rewarding his good behavior is currently our standard practice ,however, ignoring/dealing with his negative behavior has probably fallen a bit short. Hopefully, as many have suggested, we can put the advice into practice. Again, thanks for the responses so far.
 

Estranged180

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Mar 30, 2011
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Exercise is only a part of the issue. Walks with your dog aren't actually for the dog. They're for the bond between you and the dog to get stronger so that you become his alpha. Being his alpha is extremely important, because that goes with the respect that I mentioned earlier. You can use the walks to train him to do some other important tasks, such as walking on a loose leash. Wouldn't want your arm pulled out, so that's important. You can train him to 'return to heel', and you can also train him the proper position to take when he/she does this. Just make sure you have lots and lots of treats on hand when you do, because there's going to be quite a lot of treating going on.

Another way to break down some of that excess energy is to train him yourself using treats, but if you take this route, make sure you know the international hand signals for sit, down, and stay. Should the dog escape your grasp one day, and somehow wind up in what can be called a 'kill kennel', it will save his life. People that work in those types of places will NOT put a dog down if it has been trained to do at least 2 of those things. They don't use words, they use hand signals (in the event the dog is deaf). I can get you started.

The first thing you'll need to work on is a little game called 'watch me'.

Get a treat in your right hand, and hold it just between his (from this point on, I'm going to use male pronouns only, just to simplify things a bit) eyes. When he sees it, trace a line between his eyes, and the bridge of your nose. Say "Watch me". Treat the dog if the dog follows the treat to your eyes. Repeat this 3x. On his 4th attempt, do not hold the treat to his nose, but trace a line with your hand while you're in a standing position from his nose to yours, and say "Watch me". If he looks at you, treat the dog. If not, get the treat out, and try again until he does it without the treat.

Once you get the dog to respond to 'Watch me' and his name, you'll be able to get him to 'sit'.

1: Get the treat in your right hand, and hold it between your thumb and forefinger.
2: Turn your palm toward the ceiling, and run your hand close to, but not within reach of, your dog's head, making sure you go over his head. This will cause his head to go straight back, and if that happens, the butt will hit the ground. When it does, say "sit" and treat the dog.
3: Repeat 3x.
4: Try it without the treat in your hand. By the time you're finished with this exercise, you should be able to tell him to sit without the hand signal, or tell him without your voice, but with the hand signal. When he does it, treat him.

Quick note: You've no doubt noticed that there's a lot of treats flying around. If the dog has a bad reaction to a treat, you obviously can't use that treat. Or maybe your dog is just too small for treats of the "MaroSnack" size. If that's the case, can't use those. What to do? A toy and a party is just as much a treat as the treat that goes into his face hole.

Once you've mastered the 'sit', 'down' is the obvious next choice.

1: Put the dog in a 'sit'.
2: With the treat in your hand, in the aforementioned position (between thumb and forefinger), turn your palm toward the ground, and run your hand straight down his front. Where the head goes, the body follows, and where the nose goes, the head goes. When he lays down (no cheating, he has to be actually laying down... my dog is a cheater sometimes, but I call him on his bullshit =) ) say 'down'. Treat the dog.
3: Repeat 3x.
4: See 'sit' #4

The last thing I have to say in this post is kind of a surprise. Push ups.

1: Put the dog in a 'sit'
2: Put the dog in a 'down'
3: Repeat 1 and 2 until the dog doesn't get up. When the dog doesn't get up, it's not because he's ill, it's because he's exhausted. Usually, you'll only get about 4 or 5 repetitions, but it's enough to bleed off some of that excess energy.

Keep consistent. Remain confident. Your dog will notice. If your dog can do this, you will eventually work on things like 'stay', 'sit/stay', 'sit/down/stay', 'down/stay' (those are different, trust me on this) 'come', 'leave it', 'drop it', 'take it', and my personal favorite (because it's too damned cute for any dog to do) 'back'. Once you've learned all those, and the dog has adapted to all of those, you can get the dog to do all of those with one treat (a grade b) and it becomes even more exhausting for the dog, burning off even more energy, but at the same time, having fun with your dog.

If your dog becomes bored with those 'games', change the location. When he gets bored with the new location, change the circumstances, by adding distraction. Apparently, people are a big distraction. If he can pull this off in a new location, with new people, you're on your way.
 

likalaruku

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Nov 29, 2008
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My mom's best friend from highschool had her dog Debarked. He eventually got over it & no one ever yelled at him for being noisy ever again.

There are pet behavior schools that train dogs not to bark. This is a good hands-free approach for lazy people who don;t really want to get involved.

There are collars that emit a citrus smell (which dogs & cats hate) & ones that emit a sound only the dog can hear whenever it barks. Not sure if it's supposed to distract the dog or make it associate barking with other annoying sounds & smells. Do NOT recommend the ones that use electric shocks.

A method that can go either way as "super effective" OR just making the dog madder is spraying the dog with water (containing a smell it hates, such as artificial banana/orange/pineapple/grapefuit/lemon extract). Leaving a banana peel, pineapple skin, or citrus rind in a spot is a way of deterring cats & dogs from peeing in the area.
 

Proverbial Jon

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Nov 10, 2009
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Estranged180 said:
2: Don't upset master. Master is god in the house, people come second, cats and other animals in the house a distant third, but the dog comes dead last. The omega, as it were. Because of this, a dog that knows it's place also knows that it won't be harmed while on his 5 minute time out.

You need that respect in order to properly train the dog. Positive reinforcement (as many others here have said) is a very good way to train your dog, but ignoring the bad behaviors isn't going to stop them. It will, in fact, foster the behavior. Short, sharp noises (such as a harsh 'no') will let the dog know that master is displeased, and go a long way in training. Proper training takes positive reinforcement to the extreme, along with letting the dog know when he/she is doing something wrong. By not fostering the bad behavior, it stops.
These particular comments are where we're going to have to differ. Dog behaviour has moved on a lot in the last ten years and a lot of top dog trainers now no longer recognise the "dominance" model of training. It's a widely held belief that wolves in the wild DO NOT work in an alpha/omega social hierarchy; they form a cooperative family unit where all are equal. The research that was conducted to form the original ideas of alpha/omega was flawed because it was based on wolves in captivity and not in the wild where they behave quite differently. Thus, the idea of being the "dominant" individual or the "pack leader" as so famously popularised by Caesar Milan, is actually not an effective nor even remotely considerate way of training a dog.

I'd recommend the book Dominance in Dogs: Fact or Fiction? by Barry Eaton for further (and more coherent!) explanations. I was sceptical before I read this book but it actually makes a lot of sense.

I still hold to what I said before. Dogs don't have a moral compass. There are no right and wrong behaviours, only wanted and unwanted. You simply need to reinforce the wanted behaviours and the unwanted will soon die out. Sure you can use positive punishment to discourage a behaviour but the dog will simply avoid this behaviour in the future because he fears the response from his owner. Why train a dog through fear? Instead allow him to choose an appropriate behaviour because THAT one will give him the biggest positive reward. Any form of punishment serves only to confuse the dog and break down the dog/owner bond.

The views I put forward here are those I have been taught by the charity I work for and as far as I am aware they reflect the most up to date thinking within the dog training world. I don't wish to sound arrogant or a know-it-all but this is simply my understanding. I know as well as anyone that there are a million and one theories out there! I see them daily and I see the results.

However, I would be so bold as to warn anyone away from using any form of training that uses the dominance model. If you believe nothing else at least understand that it's based on old and flawed research and doesn't reflect the behaviour of the animals we see in our homes.
 

Proverbial Jon

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Nov 10, 2009
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SimpleThunda said:
Show me a dog that's trained using that model and not using dominance at all.

I don't believe a word of what you said.
People infinitely more qualified than myself have written papers and books on the subject. Perhaps you should aim your disbelief at them instead.

I'm not saying dominance training doesn't work. In a lot of cases and for a lot of owners it does work. But they're only seeing the surface, they're seeing problem = solved therefore the ends justify the means. But they often don't understand the process and how this particular mindset is affecting the dog.

Dominance is a human trait. As humans we love to use anthropomorphism to better relate to our animals. I should know, I'm a furry, we're all about anthros. As a species humans can't help but attach purely human traits to things we don't understand in order to make sense of them. Fear of the dark? Make up the boogeyman. Existential crisis? Turn to one of many gods all designed to appear human-like. God fashioned us in his image? More like we fashioned him in ours.

Dominance is one of these traits. It's all too often used as a blanket term to discount a wide range of behaviour problems in one go. When really each behaviour should be isolated and looked at objectively to understand why the dog has chosen that particular route. We're all so egotistical that we just can't help but believe the animal world revolves around us and we are masters of our pets.

Look at the definition of the word dominance. Dogs are known as man's best friend. Why would you want to dominate any animal? That sounds barbaric. They're living, breathing creatures that have complex cognitive processes. Such animals shouldn't be simply beaten down by our own sheer will to dominate.
 

Proverbial Jon

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Nov 10, 2009
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SimpleThunda said:
Proverbial Jon said:
SimpleThunda said:
Show me a dog that's trained using that model and not using dominance at all.

I don't believe a word of what you said.
People infinitely more qualified than myself have written papers and books on the subject. Perhaps you should aim your disbelief at them instead.

I'm not saying dominance training doesn't work. In a lot of cases and for a lot of owners it does work. But they're only seeing the surface, they're seeing problem = solved therefore the ends justify the means. But they often don't understand the process and how this particular mindset is affecting the dog.

Dominance is a human trait. As humans we love to use anthropomorphism to better relate to our animals. I should know, I'm a furry, we're all about anthros. As a species humans can't help but attach purely human traits to things we don't understand in order to make sense of them. Fear of the dark? Make up the boogeyman. Existential crisis? Turn to one of many gods all designed to appear human-like. God fashioned us in his image? More like we fashioned him in ours.

Dominance is one of these traits. It's all too often used as a blanket term to discount a wide range of behaviour problems in one go. When really each behaviour should be isolated and looked at objectively to understand why the dog has chosen that particular route. We're all so egotistical that we just can't help but believe the animal world revolves around us and we are masters of our pets.

Look at the definition of the word dominance. Dogs are known as man's best friend. Why would you want to dominate any animal? That sounds barbaric. They're living, breathing creatures that have complex cognitive processes. Such animals shouldn't be simply beaten down by our own sheer will to dominate.
Are you claiming that there is no such thing as dominance and heirarchy in nature?...
No. Just that there is no such thing as dominance and hierarchy within wolves/domestic dogs.
 

Proverbial Jon

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Nov 10, 2009
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SimpleThunda said:
Proverbial Jon said:
No. Just that there is no such thing as dominance and hierarchy within wolves/domestic dogs.
Could you then briefly explain as to why and how someone concluded this is the case?

Simply saying "dominance is a human trait" is not going to cut it, because there's 100s years of research that has proven quite the opposite.

Your last paragraph (of your big post) makes me think that you deny heirarchy because you percieve it as being cruel.

The fact is, domination doesn't have to go through force. Actually, it -shouldn't- go through force.
It should go through acceptance that you are the better leader.
You're quite right. My arguing specific points isn't really helping any. OK, so this is the most recent thinking the way I understand it:

The first research that was carried out on wolves in order to study their social interactions was performed on wolves in captivity. There are three main points that make this significant:

1) Captivity is not a natural setting, however much it tries to simulate one.
2) The wolves existed in a limited space with physical boundaries, unlike the real world.
3) The wolves would not have all been from the same family, they were taken from many places and were likely strangers to one another.

This artificial and unnatural setting caused behaviours to develop that today we use to typify the notion of dominance. Namely challenging other individuals for food or mating partners. No doubt the study of these behaviours gave rise to the idea of a dominant individual and those that ranked below him.

But many years later, when it was possible to study wolves in their natural habitat, it was discovered that everything we thought was wrong. Wolves certainly lived in groups, in "packs", but these groups were family units. Usually a breeding pair (mum and dad), their children and possibly a previous year's offspring and siblings of the breeding pair. Not only was their relationship familial but it was also cooperative rather than antagonistic; cooperation was more conducive to their survival. They would work together to hunt food and there would be no fighting over scraps because there was usually more than enough to go around. If any priority was given to any single individual it would be the youngest, they would eat first because their need was greatest, the breeding pair (parents in this case) would often eat least because of this.

When the offspring came of age and were ready to mate they didn't challenge their father or any other pack member for breeding rights. This would have been counter productive because even wild animals try to avoid mating within the family where possible. Instead they would simply leave the group to form their own pack elsewhere. This was something the captive wolves were unable to do and was the source of much of their aggression towards their pack.

Why am I going on about wolves so much? Well, everything we know about domestic dogs is based on our understanding of their closest cousins. For years we have believed that wolves work under a structured hierarchy, that the alpha male presides over the omegas. That there is a constant power struggle between pack members. We also believed that our own pet dogs saw us as part of their pack and treated us in much the same way.

The truth is that domestic dogs are nothing like wolves, even the breeds that most closely resemble the wolf on a genetic level have endured thousands of years of physical and environmental change, resulting in an essentially completely different species. Dogs aren't stupid, they know we're not dogs. So if we're not dogs how can we possibly be part of their pack, part of their family?

With it established that wolves don't work under a social hierarchy and that their interactions are cooperative rather than antagonistic, we must look at the domestic dog. In wolves the pack is simply a family unit formed to better survive the outside world. What does a domestic dog need with a pack? They have food, water, warmth and shelter all provided. They don't need to survive. The whole theory of dominance just falls apart with the application of the new research.

So let's look at a typical example: the dog that growls when you go near his food bowl or any form of food he is easting. Many people would say that this dog is being dominant, that you should control everything in your home. They would insist that you withhold food, that you only feed after your own human meal time to show him that YOU as master eat first. They will also say that you should be able to take your dogs food away without him challenging you.

Wow. OK, well firstly the dog won't give two hoots about whether you feed him before or after yourself because we've already established that they don't have a hierarchy system. HOWEVER, Food aggression in dogs is a real thing, it's known as resource holding potential (RHP). RHP is basically the amount a dog values any particular resource, be it food, a toy or a comfy place to sleep like the sofa. If a dog wants a particular resource enough, if his RHP is high, he will guard said resource. Why should he be given cause to guard it? Because every time he begins to eat some well meaning but misinformed owner snatches the food away. What is the dog to think of this? Next time the owner comes near the bowl he will defend his resource because he has been given reason to doubt and fear the owners presence. This is not dominance. He does not think he's better than you, he does not want to control you. He simply wants his food left alone. Besides, this dog might display this reaction to food but be absolutely fine with you removing a toy from his mouth or telling him to get off the sofa. A true "dominant" dog would challenge you on every one of these counts.

You asked before why I think dominance based training is cruel. If dogs worked under a social hierarchy system I'd say that sort of training was probably exactly what was needed. But we now know that they do not. I've heard some people say that you need to grab your dog, turn him on his back and literally lean over him to dominate him and show him who is boss. This idea is horrifying.

The dog in that situation doesn't understand what you want. You are not a superior to him, you are not a family member. You are another creature that lives with him and provides for him, often loves him. Now suddenly you have turned, you are displaying aggression for no reason, unprompted. This will make him scared, wary and constantly unnerved. He will not trust you and this may cause him to growl or bite next time. When that dog is forced to act this owner will think his dog is trying to challenge his authority and he will probably step up his dominance regime, further breaking the bond and damaging the dog.

The fact of the matter is that dominance cannot exist without a social hierarchy. Dominance infers one ruling over another, so without that structure dominance cannot realistically exist. If we accept the new research and understand that wolves do not have a social hierarchy, then dominating your dog is at best a waste of time and at worst a damaging and barbaric practice. The biggest problem with dominance is the way it can be all too easily assigned as a do-all answer to every problem. It's ingrained within our very culture now. For example:


You might recognise this as a submissive gesture, something a dog does when he meets another dog that he deems of "higher status."

Submission is the opposite of dominance and is therefore out the window. In truth it's known as an appeasement gesture, as gesture performed by a dog to literally appease the other dog. This dog is nervous or fearful of the other dog and has presented his most vital areas (the neck and abdomen) as a peace offering to the other dog. "I come in peace, I lay down my arms. I mean you no harm, please do me no harm." This is not a form of submission, it's a simple social cue to another dog that he is not a threat. Whether you see this behaviour or not depends entirely on the individual level of socialisation that either dog has received.

And yet, to some parties, this could still indicate that the alpha/omega dynamic is alive and well.

Sorry, that wasn't at all brief like you asked and probably doesn't explain anything coherently at all!

For further reading I highly recommend this article: http://www.apbc.org.uk/articles/why-wont-dominance-die which also lists many of the references which have contributed to my current understanding of the situation.
 

Guffe

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Jul 12, 2009
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He's/She's just a puppy at 1½ years of age. It will continue for a few more years to be very excited when it meets people. At least every dog I know that's under 3-4 years old are very energetic when seeing people. When they get to 4+ they calm down, it's just to keep training it and hoping it helps.

Don't have a dog myself, so maybe not much use in this area :p
 

djoelie

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Dec 28, 2013
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sorry if I'm repeating stuff that's already been said, but after reading the first 10 posts I already had enough lol
I have a Staffordshire terrier that also used to enthusiastically jump on people when they came in (he's a rescue dog), now he only does it with people that actively encourage him like my father in law. Obviously not every dog or owner is the same, but here's what I did.

First off, like people have already said here, I don't give any form of attention (besides maybe using you're leg so he can't jump on you if he's larger) until he settles down. If your dog is anything like mine, they'll want the attention so badly they'll get it pretty quick as long as you IMMEDIATELY respond positively when they calm down. I started with doing this myself and then started teaching visitors after he didn't jump on me any more.

Now my dog's breed is pretty energetic and if he hasn't had some proper exercise he'll still try to jump sometimes, but only until I correct him (I use a noise). I'm not ethically against putting a dog in a cage if it's an appropriate size and it's not for long stretches of time, but have you considered giving them extra exercise if you know it's going to be busy with visitors?

Anyway, that's what I did, nowadays my dog is still pretty hectic when I come in, but he immediately jumps on the couch and lays on his back when I'm actually in the room, and in return for this I give him attention, that's pretty much it. Hope this helps, or you find another solution to make it easier to get through the holidays with your family and dog!
 

djoelie

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Proverbial Jon said:
a lot of text
Wow, that's a really interesting point,I already bookmarked the link you've provided to read it at my convenience. I don't agree with your reasoning, however. Like you say yourself, domestic dogs are actually not really like wolves anyway. Not only that, but the behavior of wolves living in captivity would seem more relevant to me anyway as domestic dogs also live in captivity. So if captured wolves displayed behavior we label as dominant or submissive (but could be called something like prosocial and antisocial of you prefer that) and dogs do too, couldn't it be relevant to see how other dogs/wolves react to that behavior and what the consequences of that reaction are?

I'm not some kind of expert on either dogs or wolves, but I have had the pleasure to see many packs of dogs (most of my friends being dog lovers), both familial, or who grew up together, and unfamiliar. They do seem to have some sort of hierarchy, or at least respect for older and more assertive animals, to me.

Sorry for responding 2 times I read your posts after responding.
 

Someone Depressing

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Jan 16, 2011
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Dogs don't like to be restrained in any way. Introduce them to who you think will get them over excited.

But if he's too loud, scold him.