My computer, oh my lovely gaming machine, has failed! It won't work at all - All help appreciated
- Thread starter SnipErlite
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I'll leave my Dell quip aside, though I do still hate my old Dell. This sounds vaguely familiar to what happened to me one time. I think I fixed it by just reformatting the hard drive. I would probably listen to just about anyone else than me though.
And do what the guy above me said.
And do what the guy above me said.
Like other people have said, disconnect everything, all wires, graphics card, ram, etc, blow on it, perhaps clean the connectors on the gfx card with a bit of tissue, gently. Check if to see if the CPU cooler is loose.
If none of these things work, I'm afraid you'll probably need a new computer, but after four years I suppose it's time to upgrade anyway.
You can get a computer that can run all modern games for about 500 dollars, I believe. That is, if you build it yourself, which really is very simple
If none of these things work, I'm afraid you'll probably need a new computer, but after four years I suppose it's time to upgrade anyway.
You can get a computer that can run all modern games for about 500 dollars, I believe. That is, if you build it yourself, which really is very simple
Hrm... I'd consider that as a possible problem. Honestly, if you're having no 'odd' issues, then no - but I'd consider it a warning sign that things weren't going too well. You might find that the Capacitors in the PSU were being overloaded, and that it might go bang in a while...Nimbus said:
I doubt it's the infamous McAfee svchost.exe-is-an-antivirus screwup - the OP did post that there were times when it would all work, so it's an intermittent issue not a permanent one. Plus that (From what I've read) results in blue-screens, not just complete shutdowns...Old Trailmix said:
Yup. No guarantee's that it'd fix it, but - odd glitches, stutters, freezes in 3D games, a low 12V signal; they're typical signs of undervolting, which is in most cases an issue with the PSU (Or, possibly, your source signal - but if you're not having issues with every other electrical appliance in the house, it shouldn't be that!).Nimbus said:
New PSU - first off, make sure that you're using a standard ATX PSU, and not some custom Dell or other OEM manufacturer model (You can usually check this via a normal Google on the model of PC), and ensure that the new PSU has power connectors, fans and such in the same sort of locations - some vent from the top, bottom or sides, sometimes you've got power connectors on the sides or top or bottoms (Yes - seen this on both Dell and Research Machines models - very non-standard).
That's about all the advice I can give - should get you started. Anandtech [http://www.anandtech.com/show/2259/2] are good for PSU reviews, very professional and really test well. They've not done so many recently, but PSU hardware hasn't had many innovations, so most of the models they've tested are still on the market. Look for something with 85+% efficiency over as much of the power range as you can get, and don't assume that bigger is always better - if you've got a machine drawing 350W from a 850W PSU, you might actually only be running at something like 60 or 70% efficiency.
Just a brief note on PSU efficiency - because of the way things work, you don't get 100% conversion from input power to usable component power. Some is lost in heat, noise, and generally running the PSU. So - 350W PSU, running at 85% efficiency. That means that there's likely to be an overhead of around another 52W from the wall socket - or it'll pull about 400W at the wall. If, on the other hand, it's running at 60% efficiency, it could be drawing over 550W at the wall. This is because there's a relatively narrow band, usually from 70% - 90% load, where a PSU runs at maximum efficiency. Some PSU's will have a wider efficiency band, and some will have a narrower band. That's why you should match your system to your PSU as much as possible - just getting a 1KW PSU for a system that's going to be browsing the web with a single dual-core CPU, a cheap 5650 Radeon graphics card, and a couple of drives is going to give a system that's actually very inefficient.
Anyway - more information than you ever wanted to know, I'm sure
Had a quick look and everything looked fine but I think it may be that PSU thing LaserFX talked about. At least I hope so.Irridium said:
Thanks everyone, I'm off for the night.
Again, sorry to hijack, but the poeple in this thread seem to know what they are talking about.
I'm running a system with an i7 920, a GTX295, 4GB RAM, and a couple of HDDs. Could I get an estimate as to what kind of PSU I should get? I've currently got an antec Truepower 850, but apparently I need a new one.
Nimbus's Wallet: Oh God! Not again! Nooooooooo!
I'm running a system with an i7 920, a GTX295, 4GB RAM, and a couple of HDDs. Could I get an estimate as to what kind of PSU I should get? I've currently got an antec Truepower 850, but apparently I need a new one.
Nimbus's Wallet: Oh God! Not again! Nooooooooo!
If its not dust or loose components, then its either a failing PSU, or a failing motherboard.
PSUs are easy and cheap to replace and for a Dell Dimension 8400, a 550watt supply should be fine and are available for under 90$ in stores (radioshack, bestbuy). I'd suggest a 650w or 750w quality one though just incase you scrap that computer and build a new one later, the Corsair TX PSUs are top notch and cheap.
If its not the PSU, you're better off building/buying a new computer, average LGA775 socket motherboard will be 80-120$ for full ATX and around 50-70 for a micro-ATX depending on features. Plus with a motherboard upgrade you might as well get a better CPU as anything from the C2D and C2Q line out does a P4HT. For better future proofing though, a socket 1156 or x58 i7 computer would be better, but cost abit more.
PSUs are easy and cheap to replace and for a Dell Dimension 8400, a 550watt supply should be fine and are available for under 90$ in stores (radioshack, bestbuy). I'd suggest a 650w or 750w quality one though just incase you scrap that computer and build a new one later, the Corsair TX PSUs are top notch and cheap.
If its not the PSU, you're better off building/buying a new computer, average LGA775 socket motherboard will be 80-120$ for full ATX and around 50-70 for a micro-ATX depending on features. Plus with a motherboard upgrade you might as well get a better CPU as anything from the C2D and C2Q line out does a P4HT. For better future proofing though, a socket 1156 or x58 i7 computer would be better, but cost abit more.
1. attempt to enter your BIOS (please google for more info) look around temps, and you boot options.
2.if 1 fails open case and clean including the CPU and GPU coolers
3. if 2 is clean check RAM if it is securly in
4. if 3 is secure attempt a boot up off another HDD from a diffrent computer
5. if 4 fails you have isolated it to be your defective machine and NOT you HDD, now comes the expensive bit:
5.1, your cpu is fine and you GPU is fine and your RAM.
5.2, you need to cheak you PSU
5.3, your mobo MAY have a problem but dont rule it out (transisors and capasitors)
5.4, check your cpu cooler is it on right?
5.5, check all cable-ling
5.6, check BIOS for faults or any possible upgrades available online
6. if everything is above in 5.2 to 5.6 is ok, test your HDD then the back up if that still fails please see 6.
6. GIVE UP and take it to a pro/scrap it.
edit:
ps every one remember this check-list above it may help YOU!
2.if 1 fails open case and clean including the CPU and GPU coolers
3. if 2 is clean check RAM if it is securly in
4. if 3 is secure attempt a boot up off another HDD from a diffrent computer
5. if 4 fails you have isolated it to be your defective machine and NOT you HDD, now comes the expensive bit:
5.1, your cpu is fine and you GPU is fine and your RAM.
5.2, you need to cheak you PSU
5.3, your mobo MAY have a problem but dont rule it out (transisors and capasitors)
5.4, check your cpu cooler is it on right?
5.5, check all cable-ling
5.6, check BIOS for faults or any possible upgrades available online
6. if everything is above in 5.2 to 5.6 is ok, test your HDD then the back up if that still fails please see 6.
6. GIVE UP and take it to a pro/scrap it.
edit:
after re-reading this and hearing that you managed to enter your OS means that it is most likely a temp issue/precaution you bios has shut you down because a component is overheating, due to the shout amount of time you spent since pressing the on button. Have you moved you computer around recently or heard a wired noise and is it cooled by the intel stock cooler ps that is THE DEVIL to overclokers. this is the most likly error but it could be others.SnipErlite said:
ps every one remember this check-list above it may help YOU!
He's running a Dell Dimension 8400, which is LGA775, old style heatsink mount, and P4HT. I doubt he is overclocking that. He checked his case for dust and loose parts, no dice, so its probably a dying PSU or motherboard. The stock CPU cooler on the Dell D8400 though is perfectly fine for a P4HT.-AC80- said:
still worth checking the heat sink, i had to use the stock heat sink before my new custom computer was built, and it lasted 20 seconds before it had a thermal shut down. I wont hurt to check. overlocking or not a cpu with a faulty heat sink will still result in a thermal shut down. if this is still at falt it is then the mobo /psu.vf501 said:
1. It's a Dell...
2. That mention of the disk check thing happening "now and again" is NOT a good sign. I think that's happened a grand total of maybe once... twice? in the ~4 years I've had the laptop I'm typing on, both times after what amounted to collosal handling or driver upgrade fuckups (one other or both). NT flavours of windows just don't suffer the problems that cause that reaction anywhere near as much as 9x did unless there's something inherently broken with them. A healthy computer in normal use I'd expect to NEVER see it.
Things that are typical of causing this sort of thing:
* Dodgy memory, particularly if it's in a part of the map where windows likes to load into. It goes there, gets corrupted, and poof - lockup.
* Bad hard disk, whether from manufacture or mistreatment. Some of those custom cases put the disk in ludicrous positions that are ripe for it badly overheating. And brand PCs like that often use cheap and nasty disks, like the lower-end Western Digitals or Seagates (as opposed to, say, a Barracuda) that appear to be made out of wadded-up tissue paper.
* CPU fan failing or CPU-heatsink assembly becoming detached. The latter shouldn't be common any more given how well-secured they tend to be, and the former shouldn't give all so much trouble, though. OLD processors would have just smoked and died. Certain previous generations progressed to having safety cut outs that killed the power at a certain temperature (before it could enter "thermal runaway", ie Halt and Catch Fire). More modern and sophisticated versions of this step the processing speed way down as the temperature approaches critical. You may end up only running at like 200mhz instead of 3200, but it will still sort of work (instead of crashing/resetting) and won't cook itself to death.
* Iffy power supply. If that starts malfunctioning, particularly under load, the rest of the machine also gets sick. (including suffering errors that could be suspected as memory or disk at first, as those parts could be directly affected)
* Pernicious malware buggering your files up bad enough to require the disk check then make the machine hang.
Anywayup the diagnosis is going to require time, confidence with computer innards, spares and experimentation. I'd start gently by downloading and making use of memtest86+. Watch it for the first few minutes, then le it run at least an hour. If the machine runs that long without crashing, that's a good start; without crashing or any errors being flagged, then it's probably not the RAM.
If it does give errors, try removing a stick (or bank) at a time and seeing where the problem does and doesnt occur. And as MT86+ runs off external storage, you can probably discount hard disk problems if it DOES hang/reset during the tests. Unplug the disk completely to be sure. You can make sure the CPU fan's spinning at the same time.
Whip the disk out and put it in a USB enclosure or use one of those fancy disk-dock thingies to run a full virus and malware scan on it unsing a different machine.
In fact just try booting it at all off any suitable external media... crash = its not the disk that's at fault... and now i'm literally falling asleep at keyboard so this needs to hand off to someone else.
2. That mention of the disk check thing happening "now and again" is NOT a good sign. I think that's happened a grand total of maybe once... twice? in the ~4 years I've had the laptop I'm typing on, both times after what amounted to collosal handling or driver upgrade fuckups (one other or both). NT flavours of windows just don't suffer the problems that cause that reaction anywhere near as much as 9x did unless there's something inherently broken with them. A healthy computer in normal use I'd expect to NEVER see it.
Things that are typical of causing this sort of thing:
* Dodgy memory, particularly if it's in a part of the map where windows likes to load into. It goes there, gets corrupted, and poof - lockup.
* Bad hard disk, whether from manufacture or mistreatment. Some of those custom cases put the disk in ludicrous positions that are ripe for it badly overheating. And brand PCs like that often use cheap and nasty disks, like the lower-end Western Digitals or Seagates (as opposed to, say, a Barracuda) that appear to be made out of wadded-up tissue paper.
* CPU fan failing or CPU-heatsink assembly becoming detached. The latter shouldn't be common any more given how well-secured they tend to be, and the former shouldn't give all so much trouble, though. OLD processors would have just smoked and died. Certain previous generations progressed to having safety cut outs that killed the power at a certain temperature (before it could enter "thermal runaway", ie Halt and Catch Fire). More modern and sophisticated versions of this step the processing speed way down as the temperature approaches critical. You may end up only running at like 200mhz instead of 3200, but it will still sort of work (instead of crashing/resetting) and won't cook itself to death.
* Iffy power supply. If that starts malfunctioning, particularly under load, the rest of the machine also gets sick. (including suffering errors that could be suspected as memory or disk at first, as those parts could be directly affected)
* Pernicious malware buggering your files up bad enough to require the disk check then make the machine hang.
Anywayup the diagnosis is going to require time, confidence with computer innards, spares and experimentation. I'd start gently by downloading and making use of memtest86+. Watch it for the first few minutes, then le it run at least an hour. If the machine runs that long without crashing, that's a good start; without crashing or any errors being flagged, then it's probably not the RAM.
If it does give errors, try removing a stick (or bank) at a time and seeing where the problem does and doesnt occur. And as MT86+ runs off external storage, you can probably discount hard disk problems if it DOES hang/reset during the tests. Unplug the disk completely to be sure. You can make sure the CPU fan's spinning at the same time.
Whip the disk out and put it in a USB enclosure or use one of those fancy disk-dock thingies to run a full virus and malware scan on it unsing a different machine.
In fact just try booting it at all off any suitable external media... crash = its not the disk that's at fault... and now i'm literally falling asleep at keyboard so this needs to hand off to someone else.
Don't worry about itNimbus said:
I was planning on getting a new PSU anyway, and thank you I'll check both of those out soon.vf501 said: