Jeez, this complaint again?
As a writer myself, and someone who's done a number of reviews (film reviews, specifically), I'll say that one should always remember that these reviews are being written by people who consume a larger amount of media than the norm, and they have to play through games (or sit through movies) regardless of whether they are interested in them as a fan or not. Readers complain when a film critic takes a big summer blockbuster to task for stupid plots or boring characters, but they forget that a film critic probably sees more than 100 movies a year. A professional game reviewer probably plays 50+ games a year, give or take. Playing that many games, or watching that many movies, means that said critic has seen certain trends or mechanics copied over multiple games or movies.
But that aside, a good review should do two things:
1. Deliver objective information about the game such as basic story, genre, and control info, such that readers can decide if they're interested in the game even if the reviewer doesn't like it.
2. Give their own, honest opinion. A reviewer shouldn't lie about their game experience to make readers happy. If they didn't like said game, then they should explain why in an honest manner.
The problem, as I see it, is when fans complain that a reviewer didn't have the exact same opinion that they did. Why? Why does it matter? Why should it bother you that a reviewer didn't like a game that you did? Really, readers need to find reviewers who have opinions similar to their own as well as cross-check reviews with other reviewers or fans. Sure, there are times when a reviewer's own integrity might be in question (or totally, undoubtedly broken as in Harry Knowles' review of Blade 2: http://www.aintitcool.com/node/11793), but that dearth of journalistic integrity is usually easy to spot.
Really, the complaining about reviews doesn't accomplish anything. If reviewers start lying in their reviews to make fans happy, then their opinions become worthless and the usefulness of reviews becomes nil.